How to host the perfect Christmas dinner, according to chefs, wine experts and professional planners

Canapes, crackers, Christmas playlists, flowing drinks, and a ripe brie cosying up to a firm gruyere on a cheeseboard surrounded by grapes and fresh figs: there is no better time of year to host guests, feast and be merry.

Even better, you can do almost everything in advance of the big day: decorate, prepare canapes, get your dinner oven-ready and even pre-batch your cocktails. We’ve spoken to chefs, wine experts and professional hosts – among others – to pull together a curated guide to every element of your Christmas dinner, from ethical turkey to table decorations that won’t spend the rest of the year at the back of a drawer.

Vintage linens

“The table comes first,” chef Fergus Henderson once declared, and it’s certainly true when it comes to hosting. No matter the number or scale of jobs still to do, a smartly dressed table, like a smart outfit, will make you feel in control. Try to resist the pull of paper plates and napkins: they’re non-recyclable, look naff and are a false economy if you host regularly.

Investing in nice table linen doesn’t need to break the bank. Skye McAlpine, chef and author of The Christmas Companion, has a huge collection of napkins and tablecloths from years of scouring antiques markets and charity shops. “If you can’t get to a market or good charity shop, there are loads of amazing vintage linens on Etsy and eBay,” she says.

Food writer Anna Jones, whose eponymous newsletter is a treasure trove of tasteful things, also loves a tablecloth. Her favourites come from Block Shop Textiles and SZ Blockprints, but she suggests buying a couple of metres of cotton or linen from a cheap haberdashery – “there are loads of odds and ends in the bargain bin” – and just throwing it over the table as a more budget option. “You don’t even need hemmed edges. It works really well.”

Fabric napkins

Fabric napkins always make it feel like a special occasion. If you want to jazz up your existing napkins, reuse ribbons from gifts or head to VV Rouleaux. “You can zhoosh any napkin by tying it with a nice ribbon,” says McAlpine.

If you’re buying new, opt for warm, earthy hues, advises writer, editor and serial dinner party host Alexandra Dudley. “[You want] things that can be elevated with the addition of a sprig of holly or leafy clementine but aren’t so [Christmassy] that they’re banished to the back of the cupboard for 11 months of the year.” Dudley believes the White Company sells “the best napkins in the world. They can handle a good wash, and there’s no need to iron them.” If you prefer a pattern, try Midnatt, a chic Swedish brand offering textiles in sustainably produced organic cotton. The ones below with red ribbons are subtle, but chic.